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With special thanks to the friedman-romells and the keating-mullaneys tools needed


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tarix07.05.2016
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BASIC RAIN BARREL ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS

WITH SPECIAL THANKS TO THE FRIEDMAN-ROMELLS AND THE KEATING-MULLANEYS






TOOLS NEEDED
-Swiss Army Knife -Teflon pipe tape

-Electric Drill -Goop or Silicone caulk and Sealant -Screwdriver -5 ft. heavy duty rubber hose

-4” aluminum or nylon screening

-Food-grade barrels -Wrenches, channel locks



-11/16” spade drill bit -1/2” NPT pipe tap


-1 brass sillcock 1/2” ball valve with hose bib, ½” MIP

-3/4” hose clamp

-1 galvanized pipe coupler (should fit the MIP of the sillcock)

-1 giant brass washer, the whole is ¾” and the outside circle is 2”





-1 WATTS A-493 5/8” x ½” ID Bar to MIP Adapter

-1 PVC 4” to 2” reducer, one piece

-1 PVC pipe 5” in length

-1 PVC 2” male threaded coupler

-1 flexible downspout tubing (8 feet length) – Not provided by NCSL.

DOWNSPOUT HOOKUP: GETTING WATER INTO THE BARREL


  1. Cut a 4” circle of aluminum screening and press it down inside the 4”>2” PVC reducer.

  2. Tack it down with a little dap of silicone caulk in four corners (pretend there are corners).

  3. Depending on the barrel bung, either.

  4. Exposed bung threads and cap: apply silicone caulk to the threads, be thorough, and place the 2” end of the reducer down over the threads and let sit for 24-48 hours to dry (Use duct tape to hold it in place till dry).

  5. Bung plug and inside threads: cut a 6” piece of 2” PVC pipe and connect it to the 2” end of the reducer and at the other end of the pipe attach a PVC/threaded male connector.

  6. Apply silicone caulk to the PVC threads and screw it into the bung hole.

  7. Let dry.

  8. NOTE: Using a drill and a 1/16” or 1/8”, drill little holes into the lid for water collecting in the lid to fall into the barrel. Mosquitoes like shallow standing water, the barrel is too deep for their survival.




CONNECTION INSTALLATION FOR BARRELS WITHOUT SPIGOTS: ONE IS NEVER ENOUGH!


  1. NOTE: After drilling any hole, having a ½” pipe tap threading device would be handy, else prepare for using elbow grease.

  2. Drill hole near the bottom of both barrels (A and B) on an obvious plastic seam with an 11/16” spade drill bit.

  3. Thread the ½” MIP brass hose barb into the hole

  4. Once you have the barb started, unscrew it and remove.

  5. Wrap ½” threads with Teflon tape.

  6. Screw barb back into the barrel. About half way in, apply silicone caulk to the threads and finish screwing the barb into the barrel. This gets messy as the caulk oozes around and onto your wrench and fingers.

  7. Let dry 24-48 hours.

  8. Once you are home with your barrels place the water collection barrel (A) nearest your downspout, and the spigot barrel (B) closer to your garden.

  9. Cut a piece of hose the length between the two barrels. More is better than not.

10. Thread two hose clamps onto the hose

11. Connect on hose to the bottom of barrel (A) and tighten a hose clamp, wander over the barrel (B)

12. Connect the other end of the hose to the bottom barrel (B) and tighten a hose clamp



OVERFLOW HOSE:

when the barrel is full, the water must be returned to the storm water gutter




  1. NOTE: after drilling any hole, having a ½” pipe tap threading device would be handy, else prepare for using some elbow grease.

  2. Drill hole near top of one barrel (A) on an obvious plastic seam with an 11/16” spade drill bit.

  3. Thread the ½” MIP brass hose barb into the whole.

  4. Once you have the barb started, unscrew it and remove.

  5. Wrap ½” threads with Teflon tape.

  6. Screw barb back into the barrel.

  7. About half way in, apply silicone caulk to the threads and finish screwing the barb into the barrel. This gets messy as the caulk oozes around and onto your wrench and fingers.

  8. Let dry



SILLCOCK OR SPIGOT INSTALLATION: GETTING WATER TO THE GARDEN


  1. Drill hole near bottom of the other barrel (B) with an 11/16” spade drill bit on an obvious barrel seam.

  2. Thread the ½” MIP brass ball valve into the hole.

  3. Once you have the valve started, unscrew it and remove.

  4. Place the large brass washer onto the valve threads (file inside to fit if needed).

  5. Wrap ½” threads with Teflon tape.

  6. Apply a generous amount of silicone caulk to the valve threads and barrel side of washer.

  7. Screw barb back into the barrel.

  8. Have someone tightly hold the screwed in valve, and on the inside of the barrel apply Teflon tape and more silicone caulk to the exposed threads.

  9. Screw on the ½” galvanized iron pipe coupling/adapter onto the exposed valve threads inside the barrel. THEN LET DRY.




CONNECTING BARRELS


  1. Place water barrel with the downspout connector on a suitable platform near your intended water source.

  2. Cut the downspout with a hack saw about 18” above top of the barrel’s PVC water stack. But wait, there may be downspout joint that you can just disconnect.

  3. Attach the flexible downspout to the house downspout. Use machine screws, two should do (Instructions come with flexispout).

  4. Place the free end into the top of the PVC reducer. Hanging free should be fine.

  5. Attach to the overflow connection with one 1” hose clamp and one length of 2’ to 5’ of heavy duty (high pressure) hosing.

  6. Place the free end of the overflow into the lower half of the downspout, so the overflow can continue down the drain or run a longer hose to someplace in your yard for draining.

  7. At the end of the season, lift the pipe from the water collector and place it into the downspout. Drain the barrels and leave the valve open during the winter. IF YOU DON’T, the litter water left in the valve will cause it to rupture. Frozen water does amazing things!




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